I had a chance to compare some the internals of some different fan clutches whilst tracking down the overheating in the cruiser.

Whilst I can’t actually dyno the behaviours, the pics below tell a story.

The operation of the OEM clutch is explained here -  http://neuralfibre.com/paul/4wd/tuning-and-understanding-your-toyota-viscous-fan-clutch

As the pics below show, the OEM clutch has far more coupling rings, more surface area, a better adjustable valve system, and more fluid. The aftermarket is a Daikin unit.

  • Connect terminals Tc and E1 of Check Connector (in engine bay) and remove the short pin (normally inserted in bottom right corner).
  • Turn the ignition switch on.
  • Depress the brake pedal 8 or more times within 5 secs.
  • You can now read any DTCs on the ABS Warning Light, but if everything is OK, you get the Normal Code (on-off blink with 0.25 sec intervals).

I wanted to fit a winch P4260063to my ‘98 HZJ105 without wearing a huge  weight penalty, or spending too much money. That ruled out walking into ARB and handing over the Credit Card for a new Bullbar and Warn. It meant I had to DIY this little exercise.

I wanted to keep the weight down, so decided a 9500lb was smaller and lighter than a 12,000lb. If I needed more pulling power, I would use a pulley block.

Landcruiser or Hilux overheating? Your factory fan clutch is probably under-filled and incorrectly set from factory. Fix this first and you may save a lot of time chasing issues.

P3280006 - Copy

The stock Toyota cooling system can sometimes be somewhat marginal. The suspicion for this falls on every component and modification in the system.

  • Radiator (Size / Efficiency)
  • Thermostat (Brand / Effectiveness)
  • Water Pump (Flow, Cavitation)
  • Radiator Cap (Quality, Pressure, Leaks, Recovery)

Contents

[ hide ]

    ilonio.com is a free blogging platform that allows you to easily share content with the world.
    Centred

    It’s fairly common knowledge that the OEM Toyota temperature gauge has a large “dead spot” in the centre of it’s range. This spot is deliberately engineered to reduce the apparent fluctuations and make the car appear to run at a constant temperature unless there is a significant problem. This works fine for most, but those of us that like to know what’s going on sooner rather than later demand a little more detail. Many people fit an aftermarket gauge somewhere in the car, I figure, if the factory gauge is already there and can be made better, do that.