I had a chance to compare some the internals of some different fan clutches whilst tracking down the overheating in the cruiser.

Whilst I can’t actually dyno the behaviours, the pics below tell a story.

The operation of the OEM clutch is explained here -  http://neuralfibre.com/paul/4wd/tuning-and-understanding-your-toyota-viscous-fan-clutch

As the pics below show, the OEM clutch has far more coupling rings, more surface area, a better adjustable valve system, and more fluid. The aftermarket is a Daikin unit.

image

I frequently see wiring diagrams for Driving Lights that just don’t work in many cars.

Toyota nearly always and Nissan often use a what is known as “switched earth” wiring for their headlights. They do this so that each headlight can have it’s own 12v supply and fuse, meaning in the event of a problem, you only lose one light.

  • Connect terminals Tc and E1 of Check Connector (in engine bay) and remove the short pin (normally inserted in bottom right corner).
  • Turn the ignition switch on.
  • Depress the brake pedal 8 or more times within 5 secs.
  • You can now read any DTCs on the ABS Warning Light, but if everything is OK, you get the Normal Code (on-off blink with 0.25 sec intervals).

Whilst my Mickey Thompson MTZ’s are on the best on-road tyre, they are pretty damn good offroad.

Their wear rate has been a little high so far, and they are vague on the bitumen, tracking and wandering a bit. It is improving as they wear down, but s straight line tyre they are not.

Here is a pic of them working over nasty stuff, mostly at 17PSI with a 100 Series Landcruiser and gear on top.